The pavlova - that frothy, baked confection of egg whites and sugar - has long been seen as an icon of New Zealand cuisine; its place of origin has been debated with Australians for just as long in one of the many instances of trans-Tasman rivalry.
But New Zealand cuisine is more than pavlova or hearty servings of the Sunday roast. New Zealanders have always loved eating meat, although we now eat less of it than in the past. Sharing a drink - tea or coffee, a beer or wine over a meal - has been an important ritual. Cakes, biscuits and home-made preserves filled the cupboards of New Zealand households for many years. And in the last 30 years, fast food and dining out have featured more prominently in New Zealand's culinary scene.
Wellington city centre is today renowned for its flourishing café scene and the culture surrounding it. But that hasn't always been the case. Prior to the 1950s there was little sign of the sparkling capital that exists today. The café culture that emerged that decade declined in the 1960s and 70s, before rallying strongly in the 1980s and 90s.
Before the 1960s, New Zealanders had a limited choice both of venue and of food if they wanted to dine out. Restaurants, cafes, dining rooms of hotels, tearooms, coffee shops and oyster bars served up a narrow menu of grilled meats and hearty desserts.
Recipes: Toheroa Soup | Toheroa Fritters
New Zealand is an island nation. Its inland and coastal waters support fish and shellfish in abundance. Unlike many other island nations, seafood was not a major part of the diet of most New Zealanders in the twentieth century. Fish consumption has traditionally been low, as New Zealanders have relied on meat, and until quite recently, beef and sheepmeat, as sources of protein.
From the mid to late 1940s an affinity for coffee, and the places that dispensed it, spread through Wellington and continued into the 1960s. From the mid 1970s until the late 1980s, though, the café scene all but disappeared.